The best walks and hikes around Saint-Marcellin-Lès-Vaison

Born from the conflicts between the counts of Toulouse and the episcopal power, the castle of Vaison-la-Romaine, built between the 12th and 14th centuries, still dominates the entire town.

The question that now arises is why the inhabitants of Vaison came to settle near the castle instead of staying below. We have seen that the Vaisonnais were burdened with royalties by the Bishop, yet the Count didn't ask for much: only a few pennies for their house located near the castle... The population clearly didn't hesitate in 1253; more than 100 houses were located there... A study as part of a master's thesis in medieval archaeology by Isabelle Cartron in 1989 reported the presence of 37 "notched huts" distributed across three sectors with notches up to 1.30 meters deep, as well as the outline of an old pipe or drain. Four huts retained the marks of postholes. Exterior staircases are also visible in two places. This reproduction shows the location of two areas to the west of the castle that correspond to the aerial photo. Whether these were dwellings, storage areas, or temporary animal shelters, no scientific research has been conducted to date to elucidate these developments. To the right of the castle, you can see "stairs" or "steppes" corresponding to the foundations of the houses around the castle. It is therefore reasonable to imagine that there were several houses around the castle. "In 1209, with the Council of Saint Gilles, the Count was dispossessed of everything. The Bishop of Vaison then probably occupied the castle until 1251, when he returned it to the Count. These two facts explain the development of the "upper town." The Count showed ingenuity by establishing a castle next to the town of Vaison, encouraging the migration of inhabitants near him. Thus, at the end of the 12th century, the city on the plain, after having existed for more than 12 centuries, disappeared... The conflict was not definitively settled until 1253, when rights were divided between the Count and the Bishop. Everything took a different turn in 1274, when the Popes took possession of the Comtat Venaissin. An agreement was then reached between the bishops and the latter, and a garrison was placed in the castle. Thus, the episode of the Counts of Toulouse changed the landscape of Vaison. Without them, our "upper town" would never have existed.

“In Vaison, the bishop has owned the town of Vaison, its market, its oven, its mill, and the surrounding lands since 1108. He exercises domination over the population, which is overwhelmed by taxes, corvées of oats and wine, house taxes, tithes, champart, etc. The bishop in his “Palatium” is both master and judge. Thus, around 1160, the Count of Toulouse, Raymond V, intervened against this domination. It is said that he attacked the town, then on the plain (the 12th-century city is around the cathedral; these are indeed medieval buildings and not a reoccupation of Gallo-Roman houses). Between 1160 and 1170, there was a lull. Raymond VI returned around 1175, employing a different strategy. Instead of seizing the lower town, he attempted to create another on the hill that was his face. This is why he decided to build a castle there.” “Originally, therefore, this castle had nothing to do with military matters; it was a symbol of power. In 1175, the Count began by building a wooden castle, perhaps a motte (a conical mound on which a wooden tower was built). Observing the current construction, we believe we have discovered the remains of this motte, carved into the rock, on top of which the stone keep was later built. The Count used this type of “archaic” fortification for its speed of execution but also because it is symbolic.” “With this motte, the Count settled in Vaison. Very quickly, around 1180-85, the wooden tower was replaced by the stone keep, in the construction of which the men of Vaison participated: “every man is obliged, at one time or another, to work on the tower.” “The keep is the castle's most beautiful architectural feature: it is a 9-meter by 8-meter tower with two levels of pointed barrel vaulting. It was accessed from the south through a system of high doors and hidden staircases, characteristic of Roman keeps. It was surrounded by a rectangular wall, within which two buildings were later added to the north and west before 1200.” These buildings housed residential rooms on the ground floor, outbuildings and a cistern on the first floor, a large room, the “aula,” and a large bedroom. This was where the Count's bailiff lived. The Count owned little in Vaison. Besides some land, he owned the castle, the bridge toll, a furnace, and a mill.

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption was built in the 15th century. Nestled on its 40-meter-high rocky promontory, this confrontation with the void is the result of gradual expansions that pushed the elevations to the tip of the rocky spur. The walls impressively cling to the limestone strata of the vertical drop. After the Revolution, the church gradually fell into disrepair until its poor condition led to its closure in 1992. Listed as a historic monument in 1994, it only reopened its doors in 2013 under the leadership of the Association of Friends of the Church of the Medieval City. The cathedral has become a cultural venue where contemporary art exhibitions and concerts are held annually thanks to its exceptional acoustics. The renovation of the façade, as well as the inauguration of Father Kim en Joong's stained-glass windows—major works of contemporary art financed by Swiss patron Léonard Gianadda in the fall of 2019—have restored some of the cathedral's former glory. But another challenge now threatens the entire building. The rock on which this masterpiece is founded is weakened; to ensure the cathedral's safety, strengthening it is an essential prerequisite for the other three phases of work. The roof also requires special attention, and waterproofing work is necessary to prevent the accelerated deterioration of its interior decoration. It is therefore urgent to begin work to ensure the cathedral, an integral part of Vaisseau's identity, is safe. The restoration of the cathedral is guided by its key heritage value, but with its 40,000 visitors each summer, it is also a major economic and tourism issue for the region. The work will allow the cultural activities and visits that have been taking place in this religious building since 2013 to continue.

On the Roman Bridge, as your footsteps echo against the ancient stones, look up and be captivated by the majestic silhouette of the medieval city of Vaison-la-Romaine. You enter a world where the past comes to life before your eyes. The narrow cobbled streets and stone houses, seemingly frozen in time, instantly transport you to the 12th century, a time when the city was the scene of conflicts between the Count of Toulouse and the bishop. The ensuing looting prompted the population to abandon the valley in favor of the rocky heights. The fortified architecture of the old town bears witness to this turbulent era, with its imposing ramparts and fortified gates. Over the centuries, new buildings emerged in the valley, extending the history of the old town all the way to the Roman Bridge. However, it wasn't until the 19th century that the inhabitants of Vaison-la-Romaine turned to the lower town, gradually abandoning the old town. The medieval city, also called the Upper Town, is accessible after walking along the ramparts and the Belfry. The latter offers a picturesque panorama overlooking the city, dominated by the count's castle. In the past, access to this city was protected by emblematic gates such as the Old Gate, also known as the St. Quenin Gate, and the New Gate. These gates, true guardians of the city's security, closed every evening from 10 p.m. to 4 a.m., thus testifying to the importance placed on protecting residents from external threats. From the Old Market Square, where the Upper Town once flourished economically, admire the still-present remains of the wall that surrounded the Jewish quarter. The panoramic views of the valley and Mont Ventoux from the “Planet” add a touch of poetry to the medieval atmosphere of the cobbled streets, lined with old mansions and Comtat fountains.

Restaurant Crestet closed and “for sale” (September 17, 2024)

Good walking shoes are definitely necessary.

A beautiful path with typical vegetation and then this wonderful view of Mont Ventoux.