The best traffic-free bike rides around Garralda

Reaching Roncesvalles meant the luxury of sleeping in a real bed at the famous pilgrim hostel (albergue de peregrinos). Marking the end of the legendary first stage of the Camino Francés from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port into Spain, this impressive, well-organized facility is wonderfully run by Dutch volunteers. Since there is no grocery store in Roncesvalles itself, a necessary 5 km round-trip walk was required to stock up, loading down my backpack with enough supplies for 5 breakfasts, 7 lunches, and 5 dinners for the demanding days ahead.

At the foot of the Pyrenees on the Spanish side of the border, Roncesvalles is one of the most iconic and historic stops on the entire Camino de Santiago. Famous for its magnificent 13th-century Royal Colegiata of Saint Mary, this small hamlet has welcomed weary pilgrims and hikers for centuries after their demanding trek over the mountain pass from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Beyond its rich medieval history and legendary link to the Song of Roland, Roncesvalles offers essential comforts for travelers today, including pilgrim hostels, warm meals, and a deeply atmospheric sanctuary where you can rest, reflect, and prepare for the road ahead.

Orreaga-Roncesvalles preserves the memory of heroic songs, ancient paths, and exhausted pilgrims on the way to Compostela. Kings who built hospitals, churches, monasteries, and chapels, innkeepers for whom welcoming strangers was and is sacred, and the love for their Holy Virgin, their brotherhood, and their pilgrims and their many crosses. Since the 10th century, Roncesvalles has been a place where pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago to Santiago de Compostela can rest after their arduous ascent. Santa María de Roncesvalles is above all a place for spirituality and pilgrimage. Pilgrim masses, pilgrimages, Brotherhood of Nuestra Señora. At the 1057m high Puerto Roncesvalles pass, Augustinians founded the Colegiata de Roncesvalles abbey in 1130. As early as 778, a battle took place here between the Franks under Charlemagne and the Basques. The warrior Roland was killed, and the Song of Roland was created.

It's the first road sign indicating the distance to Santiago. It's worth a photo.

Even if you don't plan or have the ability to walk the entire Camino Frances, the stage that reaches Roncesvalles is a must for the beauty of the landscapes and the evocative atmosphere it offers, especially when—descending from the Ibañeta Pass—the boundless Spanish landscape suddenly opens up before your eyes in the golden light of sunset. It's a magical moment, ideally shared with other pilgrims and then enhanced with a visit to the Collegiate Church. The stamp on the Credencial is also beautiful.

Don't miss a visit to the Pilgrims' Hospital and the Collegiate Church of Santa María. Also, learn about the history of Roncesvalles, as it's very interesting.

It is a very pleasant straight of slides... by car... because by bike you notice them in your legs.

One of the most inhospitable and spectacular mountain passes in the eastern Pyrenees, with several slopes, all of them very difficult. The landscape is wild and wonderful. You can breathe absolute tranquility and you can dedicate yourself exclusively to enjoying the views, the horses, the sheep, the cows and the suffering on the bike. The summit is on the border with Spain, although there is no road that crosses the border, so the pass runs entirely in France. I have climbed it on 2 of its slopes. The first time I climbed it on the slope that crosses the Col d'Orgambide, on the D428 road, which starts from Estérençuby. The first 3 km are very easy, until you cross the detour to go up to Artaburu, where the road begins to have slopes of more than 10%. From there, to the summit, the climb is very hard, around 9%, on a very rough and bumpy road, with a lot of humidity and crossing a wonderful beech forest. Once you reach the top of the Col d'Orgambide, you turn right and continue climbing for another half kilometre with a gradient of 11%. There comes a small descent, to face the last 3 kms, the first 2 very hard with several 13% gradients. The last kilometre is very easy and has panoramic views that are simply wonderful. The second time I climbed it on the side that starts from Arneguy and Ondarolle. This side is harder than the previous one, with a central section that is hellish, being 6 kms at an average of 10%, and a very hard km at 12% and 18% gradients!!! The final part is more gentle. You cross the Croix de Thibault in the penultimate kilometre of the climb. The final kilometre is very gentle and with beautiful and exciting panoramic views.