Central Portuguese Way of St. James: Tomar to Alvaiázere

After a cold night, I was barely willing to crawl out from under my four wool blankets, and my lower legs were sore from yesterday's sprint. My first steps were anything but smooth😆. The weather remains good today, currently 6 degrees Celsius. My rain gear goes to the bottom of my backpack😃. I set off at 8 a.m. without breakfast, but I want to do some shopping at the small shop, which doesn't open until 9 a.m.😆. That means I'll have to make do with the remaining provisions until I reach the finish; there's no shop🙃. So I go to the café and have a drink and a Pastel de Nata. The stage is scenic; the paths run either through the forest, along the river, or on quiet side roads, about 40% of the time. Along the way, there are several small settlements of houses, but they are hardly inhabited anymore. But beautiful citrus trees stand in the overgrown gardens. What strikes me are the people who still live in such places; they are very small. Like every day, I meet some like-minded people. There are big differences: those who look across the valley and mutter something, those who hurry past and say "Bom Caminho," and those you recognize from afar, who seek contact, and then you talk for a while. Today I met an Asian man wearing a face mask, but he was in a hurry, and a woman from Frauenfeld; we had a longer conversation with her. Twice I was able to observe a shepherd with his sheep and goats. And a fox crossed my path in the forest. A few butterflies were already out and about. Of course, the birds accompanied me with their songs all day. Today, a dog ran with me for over two kilometers. There are moments when I feel physical limits—today my calves—but also mentally difficult moments. Then music helps. It might be a song on repeat 😁, if it's just right. Today my destination is Tomar; It's a beautiful walk into the city, almost all along the river. It's a tranquil and charming little town. In the 13th century, however, Tomar was one of the most influential cities on the Iberian Peninsula and served as a spiritual center for the Knights Templar. This mysterious and powerful religious order had its headquarters in the Convento de Cristo. The extensive monastery complex is considered one of Portugal's most important national monuments. The city stretches along the banks of the Nabão River and boasts a picturesque old town, numerous historic churches, charming cobblestone streets, and traditional townhouses. I first go to my beautiful hotel, drop off my backpack, and then explore Tomar in the 15-degree weather. I do some shopping for today and tomorrow, then take a long shower and enjoy the view and the evening on the hotel terrace.

In the hostel there is also breakfast. Go to the kitchen, take what is there and leave it as you found it. Simple, it was neat!🙂 The route today goes through half-abandoned villages. Steep climbs now and then, but the roads and paths were easily passable. I only encountered a few pilgrims. A Frenchman and a Portuguese man, whom I have met before and who do not speak English, and a man from Los Angeles. I walk with him for a while after we took shelter from a small rain shower. Just then we miss a sign. 🫣 After 300 meters, a local resident calls us back. Santiago? Other way! Phew A little later I continue alone, I walk just a bit faster and that is not convenient. When I arrive in the village, I am just in time to take shelter from a heavy shower. It is still 400 meters to the albergue. Might as well wait. In the albergue, the man makes a work of art out of the stamp. He looks at the colors I am wearing and adjusts the wax accordingly. During the afternoon, more acquaintances arrive. I eat at Tasquin da ha Vila, the village inn. Fantastic menu for a hungry pilgrim. €12 😳

Your path continues as you hike from the historic town of Tomar to Alvaiázere.

Today I got up early again to escape much of the heat. However, I had to wait a bit before I could check into my accommodation in the next town. Today's tour was relatively uneventful. Other than tackling the first serious elevation gain since starting in Lisbon, there's nothing to report. According to wetter.com, it's supposed to be 37 degrees Celsius today. Tomorrow it'll only be 31 degrees. I'm excited!

Stage 6 is a great tour through eucalyptus and cork oak forests. I can still smell the scent.

The most beautiful stage on this Caminho so far. Forests, villages, fields, mountains on mostly very beautiful paths. Very varied. But I have adjusted the path a bit to have more nature and less urban. In rainy weather again I recommend staying on the Camino