The best city hikes and walks around Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga

Historical tidbit: the pope who said 'no' The pontificate of Pope Celestine V lasted only five months. The simple hermit did not feel at all at home amidst the political intrigues and corruption of Rome. That is why he made a decision that was unprecedented at the time: he voluntarily resigned from his office to return to his humble life in the mountains. He thus became the first pope in history to abdicate of his own accord. After his death, his body was interred in the Basilica of Collemaggio. His impressive crystal mausoleum can still be admired there today. A special link with Pope Benedict XVI After the severe earthquake that struck L'Aquila in 2009, Pope Benedict XVI visited the heavily damaged basilica. At the tomb of Celestine V, he silently laid down his own pallium, the woolen shoulder band he had received at his papal inauguration. At that moment, it seemed like a subdued tribute to his predecessor. Only four years later did this gesture take on a deeper meaning. In 2013, Benedict XVI himself voluntarily resigned as pope, the first since the late Middle Ages. His symbolic tribute to Celestine V proved, in retrospect, to be a remarkable harbinger of his own historic decision. Thus, centuries after Celestine V's abdication, the Basilica of Collemaggio once again closed a special chapter in papal history.

The Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio is undoubtedly the architectural and spiritual jewel of L'Aquila. Located at the end of an impressive green lawn just outside the city walls, this 13th-century church combines a unique Abruzzian Romanesque-Gothic style with a history that forever changed the Catholic Church. The history of the basilica is closely linked to Pietro da Morrone, a devout hermit who had retreated to the remote mountains of Abruzzo. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to him with the instruction to build a church on the hill of Collemaggio. Construction began in 1287. A few years later, in 1294, the Church found itself in a deep crisis. After the death of the pope, the cardinals had failed to elect a successor for more than two years. Finally, they appointed the simple hermit Pietro as a compromise. To everyone's surprise, he accepted the choice and was crowned Pope Celestine V in this basilica – and not in Rome. Shortly after his coronation, Celestine V issued the "Bulla del Perdono", a papal bull that granted believers full forgiveness of their sins if, with sincere repentance, they passed through the Holy Door (Porta Santa) of the basilica on August 28 or 29. This created the very first Holy Year or Jubilee in the history of the Catholic Church, six years before Rome introduced its own official jubilee. This special tradition, known as "La Perdonanza Celestiniana", is still celebrated every year and has been recognized as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

In L'Aquila, a rich medieval past effortlessly merges with admirable modern resilience. The proud capital of Abruzzo rises in full glory and is best discovered on foot. Wandering through the atmospheric streets, you'll encounter one architectural treasure after another. For example, start at the iconic Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, where 99 mystical stone masks continuously spout water. Climbing further up, you'll reach the massive 16th-century Forte Spagnolo. From this impressive fortress, you can enjoy a sweeping view of the rugged, often snow-capped peaks of the Gran Sasso massif. The city's rich history is also palpable in the many beautifully restored palazzi and churches. For instance, the Basilica di San Bernardino overwhelms every visitor with a breathtaking baroque ceiling adorned with gold leaf. After all the cultural immersion, lively squares like Piazza del Duomo invite you for a well-deserved break. It's the perfect place to enjoy the local cuisine and a good glass of Abruzzese wine at an outdoor cafe. As a grand finale, the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio should not be missed. This striking, pink-and-white checkered church houses a true world first: the very first Holy Door in the world. Thanks to the central, free parking facilities just outside the city walls, this compact art city is the ideal destination for a carefree and inspiring cultural walking holiday.

The Palazzetto dei Nobili (officially Palazzo della Congregazione dei Nobili) is a palace of particular importance for two reasons. It marks the exact geographical center of the city of L'Aquila within the medieval city walls. Furthermore, it forms a rare, harmonious architectural fusion of a civic palace and a religious oratory. Palazzetto dei Nobili – where history and culture meet The Palazzetto dei Nobili was once the meeting place of L'Aquila's nobility. After the city administration moved in the 17th century, the Jesuits took over the building and made it a religious and social meeting place. On the corner of the building, you can see a special stone relief that marks the historical center (ombelico) of L'Aquila. After the earthquake of 1703, the palace acquired its elegant baroque appearance. In 2012, it was also the first historic public building to be fully restored and reopened after the 2009 earthquake. Today, it is a vibrant cultural center where exhibitions, concerts, and events take place. If the doors are open, don't forget to admire the interior.

Palazzo Ardinghelli – where baroque and modern art meet Palazzo Ardinghelli is one of L'Aquila's most beautiful baroque palaces and tells the impressive story of the city itself. It was built after the devastating earthquake of 1703 and grew into an architectural masterpiece, with its monumental baroque staircase and the magnificent frescoes by Vincenzo Damini as the focal point. After the severe earthquake of 2009, the palace seemed lost, but thanks to a restoration funded by the Russian government, it was given new life. Since 2021, it has housed MAXXI L'Aquila, a branch of the national museum of contemporary art. Inside, contemporary art installations create a surprising contrast with the richly decorated 18th-century halls. The visit to this palace is absolutely worthwhile for the splendid staircase, the restored frescoes, and the special combination of historical architecture and modern art alone.

The Fontana del Nettuno (Neptune Fountain) on the atmospheric Piazza Regina Margherita is one of the most elegant, monumental fountains in the historic center of L'Aquila. Although the monument has a clear classical appearance, the fountain dates from the end of the 19th century. The fountain was completed in January 1881. Its construction was part of an extensive urban modernization project at the end of the 19th century. After Italy became unified, the city council of L'Aquila wanted to give the axis around Corso Vittorio Emanuele II a stately and European appearance. A new square was created, dedicated to the popular Italian queen Margherita of Savoy (Regina Margherita). As a monumental centerpiece and eye-catcher of this new square, the Neptune Fountain was built against the facade of an existing palace. The historical and technical fact: "Fake" bronzeThe most fun and surprising fact about this fountain lies in the material of the statue itself. Anyone standing in front of the fountain sees an imposing, dark green God of the Sea rising from a large mussel shell, leaning firmly on his trident.Although the statue looks like a heavy, precious antique bronze artwork at first glance, it is actually made of painted terracotta (baked clay). Because the city at the time preferred a quick and budget-friendly beautification of the square, a skilled imitation technique was chosen. The clay was painted with special green pigments to mimic patinated bronze. Only the internal supporting structure of the trident is made of iron.

From this viewpoint, you can enjoy a magnificent panorama of the impressive Gran Sasso massif. Here stands the monument to Francesco De Marchi, the pioneer who was the first to climb the highest peak of the Apennines in 1573 and, a day later, also carried out the first documented speleological exploration. An ideal place to rest for a while, enjoy the view, and reflect on a special piece of Italian mountaineering history.

The Auditorium del Parco in L'Aquila was designed by the world-renowned Italian architect Renzo Piano and officially opened in October 2012. The striking building is located in the park right next to the Spanish Fort (Forte Spagnolo). Musical lifeline: The primary function of the auditorium was to immediately give back a concert hall and a cultural meeting place to the city. The original concert hall in the Forte Spagnolo had been severely damaged and rendered unusable by the 2009 earthquake.Capacity: The complex consists of three interconnected wooden cubes. The largest, central cube houses a concert hall with 238 seats and a stage that can accommodate an orchestra of up to 40 musicians. The two flanking cubes function as a foyer and dressing rooms. : The three cubes stand at strange, oblique angles to each other. The architect wanted to create the illusion of three dice thrown randomly on the grass, providing a playful contrast to the strict, perpendicular Spanish Fort next to it.